Ultimate Guide to Hiring a Roofer

Does handing over $9,500 to a stranger make you nervous? And what if that stranger was about to rip your roof right off from over your head? No wonder that choosing and hiring a roofer is so stressful. This article provides much-needed guidance on roof repair and replacement. Let's demystify the process, gather solid information, helpful tips, and take it step-by-step to find a contractor for one of the biggest costs of your life. 

Here’s a detailed look at how to choose a roofer, from vetting candidates to evaluating estimates to working with your insurance.

How to Find Qualified Roofers

Before you can vet roofers, though, you have to find them.

First, go to friends, neighbors, and family. Have they had their roof replaced recently? Were they happy with the job? Careful though, one of the biggest issues we have found was clients needing a new roof after a short period due to going with the roofer their friend suggested and ending up with installation errors. Online sources such as websites, Better Business Bureau, and Google reviews can give ideas for more candidates.

At this point, you may have ten names or more. That may seem overwhelming, but you’re going to whittle down that list quickly. Before you ever speak to a roofer, go to online reviews or roofer websites to check out their qualifications.

Certain qualities are no-exception, must-haves:

1. 1. Registered– A contractor's registration shows permission to do business in your state. Work done by an unregistered company won’t have the necessary permits and may not be covered by your homeowner’s policy. 
       
   2. Insurance - Liability insurance protects you if the contractor damages your home. Worker’s comp insurance saves you from liability if a worker is injured.
       

      PRO TIP: “If a roofer hesitates about sending you his license or insurance information, be suspicious,” cautions T.J. “You don’t want to be the client whose roofer took a 50% deposit and then disappeared to another state, leaving you with only a business card that was printed an hour ago.”

   3. Local – A local roofer will be there next month or next year if something goes wrong with your roof.

Many roofers are just fly-by-night roofers, they come into the neighborhood when a storm comes in. Then you call them afterwards, and the number is disconnected.” 

Other qualifications are a plus, although you don’t have to rule out roofers without them:

• Certified or accredited by manufacturers like Owens Corning
• Great online reviews
• Awards from online sites or local media

Interviewing Roofers

The next step is to go through your list and notes to choose three roofers to interview. Eliminate any roofers who don’t meet the basic qualifications. Give bonus points to roofers with excellent reviews, customer service and clear material presentation.

Sometimes homeowners think they’ll do better by interviewing five, six, or even ten candidates. We warn that it will waste everyone’s time and paralyze you into indecision. When you get into 5 or 6 estimates, you start to cloud your own judgement.

When you speak to a roofer, ask about any qualification questions you couldn’t find answers to online. Contractors should be happy to provide you with that information immediately or follow up to the proper information.

Does the roofer have experience with the kind of roof you want? All roofers do asphalt shingles, but rubber, metal, slate, or tile are trickier.

Evaluating Estimates and Proposals

You now have three estimates in hand. It’s time to evaluate your options and choose a roofer.

Estimates have different formats, but certain items should be clearly spelled out in any estimate:

1. 1. Price – Price is often a homeowner’s most important consideration. When assessing cost, avoid comparing apples and oranges. A roofing specialist should always explain what materials they use and educate you on their process.
      
      This is also the time to ask about financing options.(See more on prices below.)

      PRO TIP: If you get two or three estimates and two of them are around the same but one of them is outlandish, there’s probably something wrong with that one. Trust your gut.

   2. Materials - What type of shingles, ridge shingles, ventilation, underlayment, flashing, drip edge and pipe boots will the contractor use? Every material should be specified, including the product type and manufacturer. (See more on materials below.)
       
   3. Warranty – Not all warranties are created equal. A warranty may be for as little one year or as long as the lifetime of the roof. Be sure to read the fine print of any warranty for exclusions. Many materials come with their own warranties, but only if installed correctly. Your roofer should be familiar with those guidelines. Finally, a transferable warranty can be a selling point if you later put your house on the market. Careful not to be sold a 50 year warranty for a roof that isn't even up to code. If the day comes where you need to rely on that warranty, it may have been null and void the day it was installed. Companies like Mighty Dog Roofing of Rhode Island are Owens Corning Platinum Preferred contractors backed by manufacturers and receive exclusive ongoing training to ensure there are no warranty issues.
       
   4. Time frame – Standard timing for a roof is to do it in one day. Some may take 2 depending on size and any issues found along the way.
   5. Property protection - How will the roofer protect your gutters, landscaping, and other property? How will the company dispose of refuse?

Understanding Pricing

Every estimate will include an overall price, but you want to understand the breakdown for each part of the roofing job.

• • Old roof – There’s typically a small fee for removing it.
     
  • Overlaying – Overlaying means installing the new roof on top of the old one. For many reasons, laying shingles on top of shingles is never recommended. A lower layer of shingles will expand and contract and push out the nails. Roofers will overlay if the client insists, but there may be an additional per square foot charge.

    PRO TIP: Sometimes people want to avoid the cost of tearing off the old roof, but it’s not worth the quick short-term savings. Overlaying voids your warranty on the shingles and can cause more expensive problems down the line.

  • Underlayment – The underlayment is a protective, secondary moisture barrier between the outer roofing material (like shingles) and the decking. See below for more details on options and costs.
     
  • Decking – If the boards underneath the roofing material are rotted or soft, they need to be replaced. Find out the cost per board and the roofer’s estimate for how many, if any, need to be replaced. They can never know for sure until they rip off the old roof, but experienced roofers can recognize weak spots by seeing how the shingles lay. 
     
  • Flashing and pipe boots – Flashing is a metal seal that may be necessary on certain areas of your roof. Be wary if the roofer says he’s not going to replace the flashing or pipe boots; a high-quality job should include these replacements.
     
  • Ridge vent - Again, be wary of a roofer who plans to keep your old ventilation system. 
     
  • Gutters, soffits, etc. - These items are never automatically included as part of a roof replacement. however, these components are important to address. Will it be necessary for you to replace any other parts of the roofline? These would be added costs.

How can you tell if a price is fair? 

• Compare it to your other estimates. As mentioned above, make sure you’re comparing like with like.
   
• Check out materials’ prices online at Home Depot or Lowes.
   
• Roofs with a very high pitch are more expensive because they take longer to roof. The same is true for roofs with multiple valleys or dormers. Flat roofs or roofs with a very low pitch are also more expensive because they require more expensive materials. 
   
• If you have water damage on your roof, the job may include replacing part of the decking (wooden boards) or soffits. That will cost more money.

Choosing Materials

Your estimate should include options for roofing materials. It’s worth spending time to weigh the costs vs. the benefits. High-quality materials may cost more upfront but can sometimes save you money down the line. Spend time with your Roofing Specialist, if the company has one. They should explain the process and materials to you as well as answer questions you may have.

1. Roofing Material - The roofing material is the outermost layer of the roof. Most homes have shingles since they’re the least expensive and work well in any climate. Still, it’s worth knowing about other options, and even shingles offer you choices. 

1. Underlayment - While you’ll never see the underlayment again once your roof is complete, it’s important to choose quality materials to protect your home. This is not the place to skimp.
   
   Your underlayment options include:
   
   a. Felt – Felt has been used for years and is the least expensive option. It’s water-resistant, although not waterproof.  Felt comes in different weights. 15-lb felt is not recommended; it tears too easily. 30-lb felt is a thicker, more durable choice but still not recommended. 
   
   b. Synthetic – Synthetic is replacing felt as the go-to underlayment for roofs. It’s stronger, easier to install, and repels water. It is, of course, more expensive. 
   
   c. Peel ‘n stick – Peel ‘n stick is a newer, premium product that provides excellent protection. However, you can’t use peel ‘n stick if your attic has spray foam or closed-cell insulation. In fact, it will void your warranty. The seal will be too tight for vapors to escape, and your roof will bubble. It suffocates your house.

Speak to your roofer about the best underlayment option for your house and climate.

3. Additional Protections - Other materials offer extra protection to the vulnerable areas of your roof:

1. 1. Plastic water shield – This may be installed between the underlayment and shingles as an extra layer of water protection in your roof’s valleys.
   2. Pipe boots – Pipes are the most likely place for a roof to develop a leak. The pipe boots prevent those leaks and are worth upgrading to hard plastic. Rubber pipe boots deteriorate after ten years. 
   3. Metal flashing – The intersection of different surfaces on your roof are also prone to leaks. (For example, chimneys, skylights, walls, or any place when your roof goes from a higher point to a lower point.) Flashing is a thin piece of metal sealed in place to direct water away from those intersections. 

Repair vs. Replace

Repairing a roof is much less expensive than replacing it-at least in the short term. Sometimes it’s clear that your roof needs to be replaced, such as for catastrophic damage. Other times, you only have one small leak around a pipe boot, flashing, or from a single hole.

But, often, the decision isn’t clear-cut. Here are a few tips to help with your decision:

• See what the roofers are recommending. They know roofs better than anyone else.
• If you have multiple leaks popping up, it’s probably time to replace. 
• If you don’t see granules on asphalt shingles, it’s time to replace.
• Know the age of your roof. Shingles, especially, have a life expectancy, and after a certain point, you’ll be on an endless stream of repairs. You’ll spend more money in the long run by constantly patching.
• Check with your insurance company. They may not cover your roof after a certain age. 

Working with your Insurance Company

Chances are that if you’re replacing your roof, you’re working with an insurance claim. 

Your contractor will be very comfortable and familiar with working with insurance companies. The process is standard and should go smoothly.

Once the paperwork is complete, your insurance will pay a deposit upfront. They may write the check to you or directly to the contractor.

The insurance company will pay the balance (called the “depreciation”) after the roofer sends in a “letter of completion.” That can take up to a week, so be sure the roofer gives you a long enough grace period to pay the balance.

The roofer may ask you to sign a “letter of intent,” which allows them to speak directly to your insurance company. That is acceptable and often helpful since they know the system.

Hiring the Roofer

You’re almost there! 

You’ve gone over each estimate with a fine-toothed comb. You compared prices, materials, timing, and all the other details. You’re confident in your decision and know which roofer you want to hire.

There are a few more loose ends to tie up in the hiring process:

1. If you have not already discussed this with your Roofing Specialist, decide where materials and dumpsters should be located during installation. These items are typically delivered a day or 2 prior to installation. 
    
2. If applying for financing, be sure to lift any credit freezes on your credit, atleast temporarily. Getting denied and having to start over with a credit application can be a real pain.
    
3. SIGN THE CONTRACT! The contract will usually contain the same information as the estimate/proposal but is honed down to only the options you chose. It’s a binding, signed document where the owner commits to paying, and the roofer commits to doing the work in a specific time frame.
4. Submit your deposit in a timely manner. Taking your sweet time submitting your deposit can result in delays in installation, materials and permits.

Congratulations! You made a great choice, and you’ll be enjoying a new roof for years to come.

Contact us today!

www.mightydogroofing.com/rhode-island

Phone: 401-425-4108

Mobile/TEXT: 401-234-2452

Email: MDR224@mightydogroofing.com